Day 7 – Ediger-Eller to Treis Karden

 

Beilstein

 

It was our penultimate day on the cycle path.  After leaving Ediger-Eller we continued along the left bank before crossing over the river to ride on the right bank.

 

A few kilometres on from Ediger-Eller we encountered a swan nesting.  The locals had even put a screen around part of her nest.  Her mate was keeping an eye on her to make sure nothing untoward happened.  Then after a while the male swan decided he had had enough of us and in particular me.  Next thing I knew he was lunging at me.  I made a quick retreat but without my bike.  The swan was between me and the bike.  Graham manoeuvred his way behind a tree on which rested my bike and was able to retrieve it without the swan attacking him.  In the meantime, the swan kept a malevolent eye on us. 

The swans

One of the recommendations in our notes was to visit Café Klapperburg in Beilstein.  Apparently, it was renowned for its collection of coffee paraphernalia and especially their cakes.  We can attest to both.  The collection of coffee things was immense and the cakes were superb.  We had a simple toasted sandwich first and then we each pigged out on a cake.  Our justification was that we were burning lots of calories cycling.  The café was very cute and it was situated in a jumble of half-timbered buildings set in amongst the rocks and the bend of the river.  Above it was a ruined castle.  It was very cute and is called the “Sleeping Beauty” village. 

 

Beilstein

Our first sight of Beilstein

It was time to rejoin the cycle path.  We were directed to cross the river on the ferry which ran rather infrequently but fortunately ten minutes after we arrived it came across the river.  A camper van wanted to get on it but it seems only cars were able to use the ferry.  I was not surprised as the weight of it may have sunk the ferry. 

 

Beilstein from the left bank

On the ferry

We continued on passing a more substantial town called Ernst before arriving at the major tourist destination of Cochem.  Compared to the villages we had stayed in or cycled past it was much bigger with more traffic and people.  I can’t imagine what it must be like in the height of the tourist season.  It must be wall to wall people judging by the number of restaurants and hotels.  Nonetheless it is rather attractive.  There is a castle overlooking the town which was visible as we rounded the bend.  I managed to get a photo of it but the sun disappeared just as I took the picture which meant its dark façade blended almost perfectly into the background.  And dammit the sun would not co-operate to allow a better photo.

Cochem Castle

Cochem as we rode into the town

 

I wanted to go up to the castle as it had a good view over the river and we had not had that during the previous three days.  Trish who had been travelling down the river with the driver, (although she had by this time opted to take the train and get off at places that interested her) happened to be very near where we were pondering how to get up to the castle.  We could either ride our bikes up there or take a bus.  We opted for the motorised version of transport and were pleased we did as it was quite steep.  An e-bike would have been fine.  The view was worth it.  I imagine in high season one would be jostling with many others to get to the view.  Not my cup of tea.

 

Down river from the Castle 

Up river from the Castle

We decided not to go through the castle as it seemed one had to wait for a tour and we all wanted to get on our way. 

 

It was a battle into the persistent head wind over the next few kilometres before we arrived at out hotel in Treis Karden.  A shower was beckoning as well as a drink of some sort.  The hotel was rather large and we had a nice room.  So far none of the rooms have been as good as our place in Piesport. 

In the village of Beilstein

Inside Cafe Klapperberg

Cruising the Mosel

Beilstein including the castle above it