Day 5 – Mosel Cycle Path – Piesport to Traben-Trarbach

A little house in the vineyards

The temperature had dropped overnight and we pondered whether to wear long pants and bit more clothing on top. We opted for the more is better as we can always strip off a layer. It was partly cloudy as we took off along the cycle path keeping to right bank of the Mosel.

The first village of note that we went through was Brauneberg. We were looking for a café but it was Sunday and despite it being after 10am there was nothing open. One of the features of the village was a 1.6km row of walnut trees which according to our notes served as a barrier against the ice floes in the Moselle. This clearly is not needed now as it does not get cold enough. There was also meant to be a church with an onion domed tower. We were not able to find it.

A few kilometres past Brauneberg we stopped so I could take a photo of a rather imposing castle or perhaps fancy hotel on the opposite side of the river. While I was doing that Bev was being chatted up by man with a dog. He had married a woman from Wales who had left him a few years ago to return to Wales. Apparently she had mental health issues. Bev commented that he was friendly but a bit lonely. However, it is nice meeting locals. C

Chatting with the local

The day had not really warmed up so we were looking forward to arriving in Bernkastel-Kues. Bernkastel-Kues was an old wine-trading centre. It had a wonderful collection of old half-timbered houses and historic buildings. We found a little café and had long lunch. The waitress who served us was a delight. She had a little English and delighted in teasing Graham. The food was good and we able to get a cup of tea for me and coffee for the others.

The town square

Local tourists wandering the Bernkastel streets

Enjoying the warm sun in the town square

The town square was buzzing with people and apparently in the summer months the place is packed almost shoulder to shoulder so it was a good time be there. Apparently it is not only Bernkastel that has the crowds but many other villages and towns along the Mosel. One of the things we noticed was the number of camps that were all set up for campervans or the equivalent. Some were half full even at this time of the year.

As we left Bernkastel-Kues we went past the winery of Dr Loosen. It was one of the first German wines I had tasted. They were rather good Rieslings.

Posing outside Weingut Dr Loosen's winery

Further along we came across a rather large sundial. Just as we arrived the sun came out telling us that it was 2 pm. Our watches showed 3:30pm accounting for daylight saving.

The sundial

We continued along the serpentine river with each bend of the river showing something different. Finally, we arrived at Traben-Trarbach and found our way to our hotel. Trish was already there.

After a shower and a change of clothes we went looking for a place to eat. It was Sunday night and it seemed everything was closed. Finally, we decided on a traditional German one. It was interesting, it felt like it was all schnitzel, potatoes and onions. There was not a green vegetable in sight. It was tasty enough but I was left wanting a something green.

The hotel had a rooftop on which we could have a drink. The siblings decided a drink up there would be a fun thing to do. I was not so keen as it was around 8 degrees. Being marginally co-operative I joined them after they had frozen their butts off for a few minutes. I was wrapped up in my puffer and had a beanie. It was still cold. I lasted a respectable amount of time before saying I would like to go back to our somewhat overheated bedroom.